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  • Writer's pictureBen Levi


This time they caught me by surprise.

a friend of mine (@Harel) contacted FYSETC company more than two months ago, after having difficulty ordering a kit from Blurolls. Turns out someone there took his request very seriously and made a new truly BLV mgn Cube full kit. so a few days ago he finally got his new kit and asked me to build the BLV cube 3d printer for him. I usually don't have free time but he asked so nicely and I agreed. In less than two hours after I agreed he arrived, Gave me two packages with a total weight of over 30kg And smiled.. well, he had a reason to smile.

I waited for the evening, the kids fell asleep and I could finally sink into what I really love...

Nothing prepared me for what came next.

A few moments after I spread the contents of the cartons on the floor, I stood overwhelmed for a few minutes and could not believe my eyes while constantly mumbling "It's all there..."

There is no other explanation except Someone there, actually did his homework And did it well.

Someone there at Fysetc built the printer to the last detail, tested it properly, assembled all the right parts, narrowed the wiring diagram for easy installation, added an ingenious Neopixel kit to the front panel, updated and upgraded most printer components to an almost perfect kit.

Without a doubt, this kit can save up to 60% of printer building time.

Kudos to those who were responsible for creating the new BLV mgn Cube kit, well done!

The kit

You could see they cared about everything Starting with the strict packaging. All screws are well labeled, all wiring pre-crimped/with plug ready for installation without the need for soldering crimping. The SSR has its own pre-crimped wires, and so all the other wires, even the motors. The motors cables were labeled, and their wires arranged in the correct order - ready to use. They added a carbon sticker for the panels and each screw hole had a countersink so the sticker will hide it. They added the insolation pads and even an adhesive tape for it. used the new Blind Joints frame for a quick frame installation and upgraded the power supply to a Meanwell 600W (from 450W). They added installation tools and even made sure the linear rails will have red caps preventing the carriage from falling during installation and yes, the rails running smooth. you can choose All-metal Throat or Ptfe Throat, it's all there and many more.

The most amazing part was that they took all the hassle involved in installing the Neopixel rings and turned it into an installation of less than a minute. even my 5 years old kid could install it in less than a minute. They replaced the mini IR with BLtouch and added a BuildTak glass and many more.

I have to stop here.

It can't be that everything is so perfect. True, not everything is perfect, I wish the extrusions were better packed - few extrusions came slightly scratched. Also, they used the old 5015 fan setup for the hotend while I added a long time ago improved cooling part, using dual 4010s blowers. Also, the Kit doesn't include the Metal KIT which is my favorite choice over the printed parts. I have just completed the parts testing phase, including testing the boards and motors, bearing tolerance, and rail's motion. Overall I am very pleased. In the next few days, probably I will build the frame and as soon as the Metal kit will arrive I will continue building the new BLV mgn Cube 3D printer kit. Right now the kit looks promising and I hope I will not be disappointed. I'm afraid that my friend may not get his printer back😃.

Here is a quick menu for you:

Before you will start reading, here are all the relevant links:

The Frame

Before I even opened the smaller box, I could guess where the frame was based on the noise the box made when I lifted it and the weight. As soon as I opened the box, I noticed that most of the profiles were protected with a thick layer of nylon. Also, there was foam designed to protect the contents of the box. Despite this, a few extrusions were slightly scratched, but these were minor to almost indistinguishable scratches.

I measured all the profiles and found that they were all very accurate. The drillings were accurate but slightly unclean and I had to clean some aluminum chips left inside.

The frame itself comes as a "Blind Joints" setup, that allows you to assemble the frame without the use of brackets. It saves over 80% of the assembly time. All it takes is to screw the provided button screw and slide the screw head into the other extrusion channel as shown in the video. Also, Check our community member Harel's Blind joints frame assembly video.

Inside the box, I also found a huge plastic bag with lots of small bags inside. Each bag was tagged and contained a certain type of screws. The number of screws was accurate in most cases and some even had spare. I was surprised to find even parts I did not include in the original BLV mgn Cube 3D printer BOM, like coupling (standoff) for fixing the main board to the rear composite panel. not to mention the Flathead screws for the outer composites panels.

Overall I am very pleased with the frame extrusions and that even before I built the entire frame.

Main Board and LCD

As in the original BOM of the project, the kit is equipped with an excellent clone of the Duet 2 WIFI board. One of the best and most reliable boards running Reprap. Although more than a year ago the new Duet 3 came out - Duet 2 is still one of the most recommended boards to use. It meets the needs of 3D printers and doesn't fall short in many parameters than its big, updated, and expensive brother. It is also worth mentioning that the Duet family are the most documented boards on the internet. So, the board that Came in the kit is the latest hardware version 1.04v. Well packed together with all the necessary accessories: USB Cable, SD card with a basic FW, Driver heatsinks, Pins, plugs, and Jumpers.

The board came equipped with a 5" LCD touch PanelDue V3.0 - an even larger screen than the original BOM screen. The New 5" screen will not fit into the original BLV mgn Cube printed front panel. so Fystec uploaded all the necessary new files which support the new 5" screen and they are available here. I really like the idea that they took it seriously and decided to customize and upload STL parts to Thingiverse.

BMG geared dual-drive Extruder

The extruder that came in the kit is the BMG geared 1:3 dual-drive extruder. It's a clone of the 80$ Bondtech BMG extruder - to be honest, the clone is way better than the original Bondtech.

Unlike the original Bondtech made of MJF 3d printing, the clone is produced by the plastic injection technique which is more precise and rigid, and that without mentioning the cheap price. I also checked the hub geared wheels - they aligned perfectly on the filament. Inside the plastic bag were the tools needed for installation, 2 clips, a PTFE tube, and screws.

stepper motors

I must admit they did a fantastic job here. The motors were placed inside an EPE foam package, each in its place and Each motor was labeled - it prevents confusion during installation. I also found a nylon bag in the kit that contained all the cables of the motors. All cable ends were ready for installation with a suitable plug - Saves a lot of frustration. Each cable was labeled so we knew where it needed to connect and the length of the cables was the exact length for each axis - the Z and Extruder were long and the X/Y axis was short as needed. It was surprising to find out later that even the wires were correct and there is no need to switch the motors wires in order to get the right motor directions. Well done Fysetc!

I noticed that the kit motors came from a different manufacturer than the one specified in the BOM. I wanted to make sure they matched the specs, but when I searched for data according to the model I found nothing. Apparently, this is a special production for Fysetc. so, I contacted them and they sent me the motors datasheets. according to the data sheet, they are pretty similar to the stepper motors I originally recommended. even though I know they have tested it with a working BLV cube 3d printer - only after building the kit and testing it myself, I will have a solid opinion about the motors.

  • Extruder 1 x 42SHDC4038Z-22B

  • Z axis 2 x 42SHDC6037Z-24B

    • Y/X axis 2 x 42SHTNC6009Z-24B

For your convenience, I have attached the technical information of the engines below:

pictures of the labels and the different cable lengths:

Teflon coated leadscrews and POM TR8

I really like this upgrade, mainly because I recently installed PTFE leadscrews on my prototype Ender 3 V2 (new project) and they are really really great. espessialy the POM TR8 nut. It's non-stick, heat resistant, and works great without any weird squeaking sounds. The quality is amazing and you can see it yourself and I am not a professional photographer..

PSU setup

This thing is HUGE! so they manage to provide this 2kg beast - a genuine MeanWell SE-600-24 Switching Power Supply. rated 24V, 25A - 600W! (unlike the first 450W PSU kit). a very high-quality branded PSU that can provide all the BLV printer requirements.

note: Before connecting the PSU please check if it's on 110V or 230v, The one I got was set to 230V as it should. if you live in the USA change the button to 110V first.

And as you could guess, they added all the necessary cables, including a power cord (with a dedicated hole in the panel), a pre-crimped cables and buttons + SSR module. all are easy for installation without the need to crimp the cables. nice!

The guys from Fysetc also made a wiring diagram for the PSU:

Auto leveling sensor - BLtouch

Because the kit has a buildtak glass bed type, the original IR optical sensor from the project's BOM cannot be used. Therefore, they appear to have attached a BL-touch sensor as an Auto-leveling sensor. It's not the original Ant sensor but in my experience, most of the updated clones give reliable results similar to the original BL-touch. It came with an extension cable of the right length.

Connecting the Auto leveling sensor is very easy, I have attached the diagram that describes how to connect the sensor

Hotend setup

All the V6 HotEnd parts came bundled in one nylon bag. These are the parts that are included:

  • Fully assembled E3D V6 hotend clone with a silicone sock.

  • PTFE Throat - already assembled.

  • All-Metal Throat - for high-temperature filaments.

  • high quality 0.4mm Nuzzle.

  • Thermal compound - may be needed if you use the All-metal throat.

  • HT-NTC100K Thermistor

  • 40W 24V heater

The hotend looks good and the inner throat surface looks quite smooth. I couldn't see any problem with it but I would have preferred if the heat block will have a polished finish.

They included also a flexible sleeve (prusa style) and a 1.9mm ID PTFE tube.

Outer Panels and Insulation

At first, I did not notice the panels Since I thought, what can be new? Then I picked them up and immediately noticed that their weight is relatively heavy compared to other composite panels. the composite panels are also called "sandwich panels" or "ACP". These are flat panels consisting of two thin aluminum sheets bonded to a non-aluminum core. The panels came in the Kit has a relatively thicker Aluminium sheet and you can feel it. The panels are installed around the printer frame using screws. Fysetc made countersink holes and added flat head screws for the panels. The idea is very nice because it allows the carbon sticker (also provided) to hide screws. They also added screw holes for the board and all the electrical components including the power plug. note: Don't forget to peel off the protective layer.

Another interesting addition that also appears in BOM is the acoustic insulation panels. They have added a double-layer adhesive tape for the installation.

Inside a thick cardboard tube, I found a roll of quality carbon sticker that can be installed on the outer panels. they added also a small plastic tool to help with the sticker installation. But because it was inserted into the tube, it warped. I will have to use my own plastic card. Thank you for adding the carbon sticker.

Heated Bed and Glass platform

This is the most sensitive part is the heated bed. The bed is a standard 4mm 410x310 aluminum heated bed. It has a built-in NTC 100K thermistor and silicone power cables. It's in the right AWG, correct length, and soldered to the bottom pads. The ends of the wires are pre-crimped and the thermistor wires have a duet plug already installed. all of the bed cables protected inside a Prusa style flexible sleeve. The upper surface of the bed is covered with a protective layer of nylon, which must be removed before use.

Due to the fact that thin-thickness aluminum sheet tends to warp, they have attached to the kit a BuildTak glass branded with the printer name. how cool is that 😊? The glass surface also has a layer of protective nylon at the top, which must be removed before use. The Buildtak glass will ensure a relatively straight bed surface and quick detachment after cooling. I'm still considering putting a magnetic surface and a spring steel sheet on the glass.

The kit also includes an adhesive-thick thermal insulation layer that needs to be glued to the bottom of the heated bed, as can be seen in the photo below.

You are not mistaken, they really added 4pcs of original creality heated bed adjustment wheels. and also original yellow CR-10 creality spings for the heated bed.

linear rails

The quality of the rails is directly related to print quality results. Although these are not HIWIN rails I was deeply impressed that these are top-quality rails. Unfortunately, even though I asked, they didn't reveal the source of the linear rails they used. I can understand that since more Chinese stores will want to sell such quality rails. anyway back to the rails..

The linear rails came wrapped in a sealed plastic bags. I was relieved when I discovered that a red cap had been placed at each end of a rail, In this way, the cap prevents the carriage from falling and scattering all the steel balls. Of course, it is possible to remove the red cap as needed later.

I checked a few things while testing the linear rails:

  • How straight they are - I used a dial indicator and also a simple method of laying the rails on a flat surface and looking for light from below. All the rails were completely straight with no distortions.

  • Smooth motion - All the tracks without exception moved surprisingly smoothly. Unlike others, I don't measure how gravity affects the carriage since it can indicate low tolerance. so my indication is a time/force table for each rail. they all passed.

Surprisingly the rails were cut perfectly in the original factory that manufactures them without the use of a burning saw. The clean-cut usually indicates that these are new rails rather than second-hand rails.

Surprisingly the rails were cut perfectly in the original factory that manufactures them without the use of a burning saw. The clean-cut usually indicates that these are new rails rather than second-hand rails.

The channels of the rails are very clean and there is no sign of over-lubrication, also the sealing rubbers are clean and new.

I am definitely going to use them in the printer and overall these are excellent quality rails!

BLV Neopixel controller

I think that was the thing I most wanted to see. The original BLV mgn Cube project makes it possible to translate the status of the printer into a light signal that being displayed on the front panel using Neopixel LED rings. But it required knowledge, soldering, flashing Arduino and very complicated wiring. Fysetc made everything easy. How easy? So easy that my small 5 years old kid can put it all together in less than a minute and it will work right out of the box! How awesome it is!!

So what did the Neopixel kit contain:

  • 3 x NeoPixel ring with connector pre-soldered on the back.

  • 1 x mainboard with STM chip and integrated voltage regulator suitable for 24V/12V

  • 3 x neopixel cable with suitable plugs.

  • 1 x Data cable for getting the data from the Duet 2 WIFI board (not in the picture).

  • 1 x power cable to feed the controller board.

You should have seen the happiness in my eyes when I connected everything and it just worked right away. In less than a minute everything worked without problems and without glitches. Immediately after turning on the boards, all 3neopixel rings showed animation and immediately afterward the printer status. Amazing!!! And it's so simple!

Here you can see the wiring Diagram and how to connect the Neopixle system. all the cables are ready to use - no soldering needed.

  • First, plug the Neopixel cable into the Neopixle ring pins. the black wire should be connected to the "G" pin (ground).

  • Then connect the 3 Neopixel cables to the bottom left sockets (3pins).

  • Then connect the Data cable (Black and white wires) to the bottom right socket (2 pins)

  • Now connect the Data cable (black and white wires) to the PanelDue socket on the Duet as shown in the picture.

  • Connect the wide LCD cable to the back of the 5" LCD and to the left scoket o the Duet.

  • Connect the power cable to the screw socket (don't forget to trim a bit the wire edges).

And that's it! as simple as that!

Cable management

here you can see some of the accessories, coupling, and GT2 pulleys.


Yes, there are finally tools attached to the kit as well 😂. Well done!

LEDs strips

The kit comes with two 24V white LEDs strips that should fit perfectly with the original BLV mgn Cube diffusers. I liked the fact that someone devoted time to it, measured and prepared the LEDs strips, and saved us a lot of time, very nice.


Inside the kit, you will also find two Endstop buttons with a long cable. Please note that Fysetc has made few changes with the Endstop mounts - The updated STL is available for download here.

Check the wiring diagram to connect the Endstops.


They attached all the necessary 24V fans, with the appropriate cable length. also, each one of the fan's cable edges has already a suitable plug - ready to install. Some of you have noticed that there is a 5015 fan as a part cooling. Some time ago I upgraded the original part cooling to Dual 4010S blower fans. You can still use the 5015 fan but the Dual 4010 blower fans are much powerful.

More Parts

They added 6m of reinforced fiberglass GT2 Gates belts. high quality (excellent tolerance) bearings. Few brackets for the frame if needed (front panel extrusion), Hepa filters, and even a brass brush to clean the hotend. Personally, i would use the Brass brush only if using an X-nuzzle or hardened steel nuzzle. using a brass brush to clean a brass nuzzle damage the nuzzle.


I'm a little exhausted after writing the unboxing review and preparing the pictures. I did not assume I would like the FYSETC kit so much. A lot of thought has been put into it. Undoubtedly the person who made the kit has built the printer and understood exactly what was needed.

Now I have left with a huge problem, I do not exactly know how to tell my friend that after I putting it together, the printer will stay with me😉 .

I promise to update you while and after building it.


Ben Levi 😊

Disclaimer: I have NO profit from any kits that are being sold.

This kit belongs to my friend and the project is open source and non-profit.

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