BLV mgn Cube
3D Printer
Hi, my name is Ben Levi and This is BLV mgn Cube - an open-source 3D printer project. building your own good and reliable 3D printer is the main purpose of this project. Basically, it's an open front structure CoreXY 3D printer, based on
mgn linear rails for maximum accuracy, efficiency
and high print quality.
BOM | BILL OF MATERIALS
To build the printer you need mechanical and electrical parts that need to be prepared in advance as well as parts that I designed for the BLV mgn Cube 3d printer. This section will help you figure out where you can get the required parts. I purchased the parts myself, checked them out and organized all the information for you in an optimal way, that will help you understand what you really need for the project.
To get started, you need to make a decision regarding the next two questions in the following flow chart:
I decided to build the printer!
getting the official METAL KIT or print all the parts?
A large portion of the printer parts needs to be printed. Printing the parts will save you money but takes a long time and skill. after the project came out, I released the "BLV METAL KIT" - an amazing aluminum kit that replace most of the printed parts. Using the aluminum kit has many advantages such as strength, reliability, and accuracy. obviously, The "BLV METAL KIT" is the recommended choice.
Getting the BLV Metal KIT
-
ready to install
-
10 times more rigid than printed parts
-
accurate
-
Not cheap as printed parts
-
shipping time
3D Print my own BLV parts
-
Cheap
-
Optimal for remix
-
needs post-process
-
Less rigid
-
Elastic
-
Printing takes a long time
Getting a full kit or purchasing the parts separately?
The remaining electronics and mechanics parts can be found in the list of links (BOM) I made and personally tested one by one. Purchasing all the parts separately will be cheaper but may take a long time due to the shipping. Due to the growing popularity, two stores decided to make full kits for the Project. The kits are more expensive due to the shipping but save a ton of time. The first kit that came out was by Blurolls. Recently an improved kit from FYSETC came out. The new FYSETC kit contains many upgrades and I even reviewed it. The new step-by-step assembly guide is based on the FYSETC kit.
GETTING A FULL KIT
-
Saves you a lot of time
-
Fast Shipping
-
Contains all parts
-
Cost more
Getting the parts separately?
-
Cheaper
-
parts will not arrive at the same time
-
Long delivery time
Which BLV KIT to choose?
There are a number of differences between the complete kits of the project. After testing and reviewing both kits. I found FYSETC kit became my favorite as it has many important upgrades, good support, and high-quality parts. Both have the new Blind joints frame (fast assembly). Please mind that only Blurolls has the Metal KIT included. Also, the next coming step-by-step guide will be based on the FYSETC kit.
-
Cheaper (USA & ES warehouse)
-
Many great upgrades!! Check my review
-
Support (github + Full FW)
-
Superior meanwell 600W PSU
-
upgraded 5" PanelDue LCD v3.0
-
Unique BLV neopixel PCB system
-
faster assembly
-
Tools included
-
convinet wiring system
-
Metal KIT not included
-
HIWIN linear rails
-
Cheaper light kit version (not supported)
-
Metal KIT included
-
-
Cost more
-
DuetWifi 2 v1.03 (recommended v1.04)
-
Hotend mid-quality
-
Ask the seller upgrade to Metal Bed
BOM
FRAME
Which Frame should i Get and from where?
Buying the frame from a local store is likely to be cheaper. However, Please note that lately I have released a new upgraded frame which is available online. It's a "BLV blind Joints" frame Which saves 70% of assembly time. It's also more stable and accurate. demo video >
Get a Blind Joints Frame
-
Saves 70% of the assembly time
-
Easy Assembly Check my review
-
much more accurate and stable
-
bracket free build
-
Cost more
-
Shipping from china/EU/USA warhouse
Links
-
both BLV KITS - blind joints included
Purchase from a local store
-
Cheaper
-
Faster shipping
-
Long assembly time
-
Not accurate as Blind Joints frame Kit
-
9 x 2040 aluminum extrusion 496mm (Wide Beams)
-
3 x 2020 aluminum extrusion 576mm (Aux wide Beams)
-
4 x 2040 aluminum extrusion 560mm (4 corners height beams)
-
2 x 2040 aluminum extrusion 442mm (Z axis)
-
2 x 2040 aluminum extrusion 405mm (bed frame)
-
2 x 2020 aluminum extrusion size:
-
for CR-10 bed:173mm
-
for Anet bed: 142mm
-
for E3D High temp (size 314x314) bed: 240mm
-
for Ender 3 bed: 106mm
-
For The X axis you have few option to choose from:
-
1 x 2020 aluminum extrusion 460mm (X axis)
OR
Optional: Frame Reinforcement for higher Z axis builds (465mm+)
-
1 x 2020 aluminum extrusion 496mm
-
4 x aluminum 2020 Brackets 20x20 \ 20x17
Triple Z axis magnetic system:
Based on the work of BLV's community member Druce Taylor, this
is a non-official add-on for triple Z from here
Other:
-
2 x T Shape Bracket 60x60 (supporting the Z rails extrusions)
-
14 x Corner 90 degrees Angle Bracket for 2020/2040
-
100 x aluminum 2020 Brackets 20x20 \ 20x17
Getting the frame Kit:
notice that you may be able to get a much cheaper price for the extrusions locally.
Screws and bracket kits:
Notes:
-
Please be precise and use the correct extrusions without shortcuts. using the 2020 profile instead of 2040 may reduce the frame rigidity.
-
The BOM below is for 365mm Z height, If you wish to build a different size, then use the Calculator excel file named: "BLV_mgn_Cube-Frame_calculator.xlsx" can be found in the project Zip file.
-
It is recommended to use regular European extrusions with mgn rails other than the V-slot type.
MOTION SYSTEM
Rails
-
5 x Mgn12H Carriage + 400mm Rails from CNA store (Use Frame calculator for other Z sizes)
-
Set of cheaper rails for 17$ each (i bought it first, choose 400mm + MGN12H option).
-
Set of Hiwin rails which are the best rails that exist on earth or Single Hiwin rail
one of the biggest stores on Aliexpress is authorized Hiwin dealer and decided to
offer a full kit of Hiwin rails for a good price. in my area ii sold now 80$ for one rail. if you can afford it - That's a steal! even E3D chose to use Hiwin rails with their builds. (Notice: Hiwin rails should be tested with a load on the carriage).
Note: For high precision rail installation it is recommended to use this adapter
Stepper Motors
-
2 x X/Y Stepper motor: Nema 17 Stepper 42STH48 2504AC 48MM 2.5A Updated version!!
-
2 x Z Stepper motor: Nema 17 Stepper 42STH48 2504AC 48MM 2.5A Updated version!!
-
1 x Extruder stepper motor - not needed since it's provided with the extruder.
-
2 x High quality GT2 pully 16 Teeth (for X/Y steppers).
Where to get Steppers kit
Please note the 42STH48 2504AC are the preferred. these are the old version steppers kits:
Belts system (check assembly section):
-
24 X F623 ZZ Flange Ball Bearings - It's Important to get only option 3!
I recommend flipping the belts at the rear (check the belt system image), please do not use the geared GT2 16T.
note: There is an Amazon seller who sells low-quality 623zz for triple the price!. his bearings are loose and it will ruin your printing experience.
Belts & Threaded rods
Main Electronics
First, you must choose your preffred firmware system for your 3D printer (Reprap or Klipper):
-
For RepRap firmware:
-
1 x DuetWifi 32bit mainboard - The best board available for your 3d printer
OR
1 x Duet 3 6HC 32bit Motherboard powerful! built-in drivers -no need to get drivers. -
1 x PanelDue 5" screen (not the "5i") OR save 80$ and use your phone/Tablet !
-
-
For Klipper Firmware (recommended! Fatser + advanced features)
-
1 x BIGTREETECH Octopus V1.1 BTT (Board only without the drivers)
OR
1 x FYSETC Spider V2.2 32bit Motherboard (Board only without the drivers)
This is the board i'm currently use!
Don't forget you must get drivers for the board: -
6 x Mellow Fly 24V/48V HV TMC5160 Pro V1.2 Drivers (recommended)
OR
6 x FYSETC TMC5160 QHV 60V Stepper Step Stick
Also with klipper you need a Raspberry PI for controlling the main board: -
Raspberry PI4 4/8GB Model B - get the case cooled kit option.
OR cheaper option: -
BIGTREETECH PI4B Adapter + CB1 Core Board
if you don't like the CB1 Core board you can use original Raspberry CM4 instead
-
-
You have few options for Z offset sensors, please choose only one:
-
1 x MeanWell LRS-350-24 (24V) AND 1 x Meanwell LRS-350-48 (48V)
for the new setup using 48v HV TMC5160 drivers you need two PSU 24V+48V
-
3 x NeoPixel Ring 16 LEDs WS2812 Module (black)
-
1 x 5M Silicone Wire Flexible 14AWG Stranded Copper Cables black\red
-
1 x 16mm Momentary switch with led 110V/220V (wall voltage)- power icon
-
2 x 16mm Momentary/locking latching switch with led 12/24V - optional
-
3 x best 4010 24V-2Pin DB Bearing OR Cheap fan 24V add 4 for small air Scrubber.
-
2 x 4010 blower fans (dual ball bearings) 24v - only for the new twin blower shield
-
1 x 24V to 12V 15A Step Down Converter(only if you got Anet E12 bed)
-
2 x 120mm fan 24V ball bearings 3000RPM (for the bigger Air Scrubber
Hotend options - few options to choose from:
-
Mellow Lightweight NF-sunrise V1.1 Dual Drive Extruder (special Section for it)
it is recommended to add the Mellow Fly-SHT Board -
Trianglelab TCHC TD6 high flow 24V+ BIQU Orbiter Extruder V2.0 + Mellow Fly-SHT Board
-
The BIQU/BigTreeTech H2 extruder are one pack light weight extruder+Hotend.
currently i'm using the H2 V2S LITE with the 48V setup and it's amazing! (25K acc/1250 mm/S). A post with the carriage suitable to the H2 series already published long time ago and you can use it. -
TriangLab Matrix extruder series:
-
Trianglelab Matrix LC Lite + Water cooling system(24turn12v option) + Thermal Fluid
Note: For Triangelab hotend change the M305 raw in config.g file
to this: "M305 P1 T100000 B4725 C0.0000000706 R4700"
more info about it under the "Additional Notes" section on this page.
New ToolChanger option (for advanced user):
Hotend optional upgrades:
-
A MUST HAVE upgrade for the nozzle: CHT Clone for high flow printing! (get the 0.4)
-
spare part: Semitec 104GT-2 Thermistor / thermistor + connector / Regular Thermistor
-
Phaetus Tungsten Carbide Nozzle Super Wear-Resistance (for Carbon/Wood...)
-
Hardened steel A2 grade Nozzle for abrasive materials printing
Heated bed system (8mm thickness bed):
Mechanics and More
-
1 x For old school users who preffer a BMG exturder
-
2 X optional: 635zz Ball Bearing for aligning the stepper's shaft
-
5 x High Quality Silicone sock - keeps the nozzle temperature steady
SCREWS
note: Usually a large quantity of screws is sold in bulk so I rounded the quantities.
Also please note you can get the full screws, nuts, brackets and corners KIT here
-
300 x M5 10mm Button Head Socket Cap Screw (buy at least 300~350)
-
78 x M3 8mm Socket Head Cap Screw (buy at least 100)
-
5 x M3 16mm Socket Head Cap Screw - Only if NOT using Block cover
-
8 x M3 18mm Socket Head Cap Screw - Only if using the Block cover
-
283 x Upgraded M5 Roll-in spring T-nut (Get at least 300)
-
2 x M4 Nut
-
62 x M3 0.5mm Washer (put 2pcs of 0.5mm or one of 1mm washer) (buy at least 100)
-
26 x M3 Nut (buy at least 50)
-
16 x M3 Nyloc
PANELS
How I created the walls / semi-enclosure?
Well, it's cheap and very easy..
You can choose one of those options:
-
4mm Cardboard sheets (cheap)
-
KAPA foam boards (cheap)
-
aluminum composite panel
-
4mm Plywood sheets
Then apply this adorable Carbon Fiber Vinyl on the board.
you can use M3/M5 screws to secure the board to the panels.
OPTIONAL
-
optional: Mayitr Black Wrap Braided Cable Sleeve Wear Resistant like Prusa
-
solid state relay SSR-25DA to turn ON the printer with button
-
activated carbon filter (for the bigger air scrubber)
-
500pcs replacement 3/32'' G10 Hardened Precision Steel balls for mgn12H rails
-
Hepa Filter for ilife vacuum robots for the smaller air scrubber
-
Hepa Filter for eufy robovac 11c for the bigger air scrubber
TOOLS
-
MUST have: New 90 Degree Corner Aluminum Clamps for good frame assembly.
-
10 pairs JST Plug Male to Female Wire Connector for Dupont wires.
-
Dehumidifier (moisture absorb) for your dry box The best i have tested in my dry box.
-
Set Dupont Wire Jumper Pin Header Connector Housing Kit Male